Chiuri delves into the past for what could be her last Dior fashion show

Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered what industry insiders say might be her last collection for Dior on Monday, the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week.

Models with Mohawk-inspired hairstyles, adorned with feathers woven into their braids, walked the runway in retro-draped skirts or short crinolines paired with lace, feathers, or long fringes.

Skirts edged with lace and capes resembling flower petals also featured alongside trapeze dresses and coats inspired by the iconic silhouette designed by Yves Saint Laurent for Dior in 1958.

A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri as part of her Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection show for fashion house Christian Dior in Paris, France, January 27, 2025REUTERS/Benoit Tessier

According to the show notes, the Spring-Summer 2025 collection was inspired by "the creativity of past centuries" and intended "to disrupt the order of time."

The show in the gardens of the Rodin Museum was attended by a star-studded audience, including former model and singer Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, American actors Pamela Anderson and Anya Taylor-Joy, and French actor Camille Cottin.

Rumors have swelled for months that British designer Jonathan Anderson might leave Loewe to take over Dior. French powerhouse LVMH owns both brands.

Anderson's absence from recent Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, and London has fuelled speculation.

Luxury slowdown

LVMH is set to announce its annual results on Tuesday, figures the industry and analysts will pore over for evidence of how much a global slowdown in the luxury sector has hurt the business.

While Dior's revenues have nearly quadrupled under Chiuri—from 2.7 billion euros ($2.8 billion) in 2018 to more than nine billion euros in 2023—some critics have charged that the famed French house risks going stale and is ripe for a shake-up.

Meanwhile, on Monday, British designer Stella McCartney announced that she had bought the 49 percent stake in her firm, held by LVMH since 2019, for an undisclosed amount.

In a statement, the daughter of Beatles singer Paul McCartney said it was time for a "new page."

However, she said she would continue to advise LVMH chief Bernard Arnault on the environmental issues she has long championed, including avoiding leather, fur, and feathers in her collections.

Haute Couture Week began on Monday with Schiaparelli's traditional show, "Icarus," inspired by the past.

Corset models with structured necklines and wide hips, including Kendall Jenner, paraded beneath the Petit Palais's gilded ceilings.

Haute Couture Week showcases one-of-a-kind, entirely handmade pieces primarily intended for red carpets, high-profile events, and galas.

Over the next four days, 28 houses will present their collections, including Chanel, Armani, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Valentino.

The latter will show its first Haute Couture collection under Alessandro Michele, creative director since early 2024.