Donatella Versace steps down: Miu Miu's Dario Vitale takes over

Donatella Versace is giving up the creative reins of the luxury fashion label Versace after nearly three decades; it was announced Thursday, effectively ending the family's hold over the brand founded by her murdered brother.

The platinum blond fixture of Italian fashion, who turns 70 in May, will be succeeded by Miu Miu's design director, Dario Vitale. Some industry insiders see this as a prelude to Versace's upcoming acquisition by its larger rival, Prada, which also owns Miu Miu.

The new role as chief creative officer for Vitale—a respected but little-known designer who has overseen soaring sales at Miu Miu—represents a turning point for the Versace label, which was founded in 1978 by Versace's older brother Gianni.

The brand, beloved by jet-setters and famous for its Medusa logo, has weathered ups and downs in its decades on the fashion scene, but a Versace has always steered the vision and philosophy behind its showy, skin-baring looks.

Top models (from left) Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Italian designer Donatella Versace (C), Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christensen pose at the end of the show for fashion house Versace during the Women's Spring/Summer 2018 fashion shows in Milan, on September 22, 2017. Donatella Versace is giving up the creative reins of luxury fashion label Versace, which she has led since 1997, with Miu Miu's Dario Vitale taking over, owner Capri Holdings Limited said on March 13, 2025.AFP

Owner Capri Holdings Limited said Donatella Versace will become the label's chief brand ambassador beginning April 1, the same day Vitale takes over.

"It has been the greatest honor of my life to carry on my brother Gianni's legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity," Versace said.

The designer, who took her customary bow at the end of the runway show at Milan Fashion Week last month, added that she will remain the brand's "most passionate supporter".

As design director of Miu Miu -- Prada's more youthful line -- Vitale oversaw 93 percent retail growth last year in a notoriously challenging environment for luxury fashion.

He said Versace boasts "a unique heritage that has spanned decades and has shaped the history of fashion."

Newness and wow

Fashion group Capri Holdings, which also owns Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors, has owned Versace since 2018. However, the luxury label has struggled to position itself, with sales sliding 15 percent in the most recent third quarter.

Prada is reportedly in advanced talks to acquire Versace, with Bloomberg reporting a potential price of nearly 1.5 billion euros ($1.6 billion) earlier this month.

Prada executives have not publicly commented on the discussions with Versace. Chairman Patrizio Bertelli said earlier this month that he was "very cautious" about any possible acquisitions.

Bernstein analyst Luca Solca told AFP that the creative shuffling could be "good news" for Versace.

"Even the best designers -– like all artists –- tend to become predictable over time," Solca said.

"Predictably is not good enough in a market where brands fight for consumer attention with newness and wow."

Muse and businesswoman

One of the industry's most recognizable figures, with her platinum blonde hair and penchant for high heels, Versace spent much of her early life as the self-styled muse to Gianni, who was murdered in 1997 by a serial killer.

His death thrust the youngest Versace sibling to the helm of the family fashion empire, which she began to lead as its new chief designer at age 42 with no formal fashion training.

Some of Versace's most well-known looks—including Jennifer Lopez's cut-to-there green gown worn to the 2000 Grammys—were due to the younger Versace's bold choices and ability to attract celebrities to the brand.

As a brand ambassador, Versace will now focus on the company's philanthropic and charity work.

After sales slumps and restructuring, Capri brought the company 1.83 billion euros in 2018.

Versace's portfolio now includes hotels, homeware, fashion, and accessories. It owns 230 boutiques worldwide and has more than 400 licensed stores.

Before Thursday's announcement, industry observers had considered Vitale a potential candidate to lead the creative design at Gucci, which let go Sabato de Sarno in February after just two years on the job.