At a cremation ground in Pakistan's coastal city of Karachi, a quiet yet deeply significant ritual is taking place.
The ashes of hundreds of Hindus, who have passed away in Karachi and across Sindh, are carefully stored in a small room at the Sohna Puri Cremation Ground, awaiting their final journey.
For many, the hope of immersing their loved ones' ashes in the holy waters of the Ganges at Haridwar remains a distant dream – one that is often deferred by the long and difficult process of obtaining an Indian visa.
Muhammad Pervez, the caretaker of the cremation ground, has seen the ashes of countless individuals stored here over the years. "The oldest ashes here are from 2011 and 2012," he said. "People want to take their loved ones' ashes to India and immerse them in the Ganges once they can get a visa. But that’s become nearly impossible in recent years."
A small room, once sufficient, is now overflowing with urns and containers, and the growing number of ashes stored here has forced the construction of a new, larger room. “This place was small, and a lot of bodies came here. As you can see, the ashes are on the floor,” Pervez says with a sigh, pointing to the small, cramped space where the urns are lined up.
`Small room at the Sohna Puri Cremation Ground in Karachi overflowing with urns.Nukta
Pervez has worked here for over 30 years, and he recalls a time when the process was simpler. “When visas were easier to obtain, families could send the ashes to India without delay. But now, some of these ashes have been here for years—sometimes two or three years.
“That’s why we’re building a bigger room,” he says.
Relations between India and Pakistan have remained tense for years. The South Asian neighbors have fought four wars—three over Kashmir, the Himalayan region that both countries partially control but claim in full.
The latest rift came in 2019 after which diplomatic relations were severed, trade halted, and road and air links suspended. The only open border crossing is at Wagah-Attari, but visa access remains restricted.
Maharaj Ram Nath, the head priest of the Shri Panch Mukhi Hanuman Mandir in Karachi, is one of the few able to take the ashes of 400 Pakistani Hindus across the border. He and others like him are the only hope for families who wish to fulfill the sacred wish of immersing their loved ones’ ashes in the holy Ganges.
Extraordinary journey
The priest is preparing for an extraordinary journey during the Maha Kumbh Mela, a deeply significant event. The weeks-long religious festival dubbed the world's largest, will conclude on February 26.
For families like Suresh Kumar's, the delay has been agonizing. Kumar’s mother passed away in 2021, and for four years, he has tried unsuccessfully to secure a visa to India. "I've been trying for years, but I’m still on the waiting list," Suresh said. "If I had my visa, I would have taken my mother’s ashes to India myself today.”
Suresh Kumar wants to send his mother's ashes to the Ganges but laments visa delaysNukta
The desire to honor their loved one's final wishes, to bring their ashes to the Ganges, is a deep-rooted tradition for many in this community. For Komal, another Karachi resident, her late mother had made a similar request: to have her ashes immersed in the Ganges at Haridwar.
"She wanted her ashes to go to the Ganges, so we didn’t immerse them anywhere else, not even in Sukkur Barrage," Komal said. "It’s been hard waiting, but I’m still on the list. If only the visa issue could be resolved."
As preparations for the Maha Kumbh Mela continue, there’s a palpable sense of anticipation among those who have been waiting for years to fulfill this sacred duty.
Jawahar Lal Advani, a trustee member of the Swaminarayan Temple in Karachi, reflects on the significance of the event. "The Maha Kumbh comes once in 144 years, and it’s crucial for every Sanatan Dharma follower. If the visa process were more relaxed, I believe everyone who wanted to go would be able to. Every Sanatan Dharma follower would go, have darshan (a glimpse), and return," he said.
Pilgrims gather at the Karachi Railway Station to travel start their journey to IndiaNukta
While the mela will attract an estimated 400 million participants, including a small group from Pakistan, the strict visa process means that few Pakistani Hindus will be able to attend.
Instead, they must rely on others, like Maharaj Ram Nath, to take their loved one's ashes to the Ganges. The journey to the sacred river, which includes prayers and rituals, is a solemn but joyful one for those involved.
“People here are so hopeful,” says Ram Nath, who will escort the ashes across the border. "At the border, they are waiting for us. We’ll go from Attari to Delhi and then to Haridwar for the immersion. We will spend two weeks performing prayers and rituals before the ashes are immersed in 100 kilos of milk in Haridwar."
Kanti Mata, a woman eager to attend the mela, shares her feelings: "I plan to go to India to bathe in the Ganges, pray, and see the sadhus and saints. We are Hindus too, and it is our strong desire to visit these holy places."
Somber farewell
At Karachi’s Cantonment Railway Station, a group of Hindus gathered to bid farewell to their loved ones' ashes. There was a sense of solemnity, but also of celebration. Bhajans were sung, prayers were offered, and the chant of "Radhe Radhe" filled the air.
Amid the emotional goodbyes, one elderly woman, Kamla Devi, was preparing to travel with the ashes of her young niece, who had recently passed away. "I go to India every four to five years for Hanuman temple work," she says. "I can’t leave the temple."
Group of Hindus gather at Karachi Railway Station to bid farewell to ashes of their loved onesNukta
Ram Nath spoke with a sense of hope and resolve. "This journey to Haridwar is a moment of joy for us. Even though there are so many challenges, we know that these ashes will be honored in the sacred waters of the Ganges."
Faisal Edhi, head of the Edhi Foundation, Pakistan's largest social welfare organization, shared his thoughts on the importance of religious tourism between the two countries: "Visa policies should be easier for both nations. Muslims in Pakistan want to visit the many religious sites in India, and many people in India want to come here to see the ancient temples and Sikh shrines. It would bring people closer and boost tourism."
The story of these 400 ashes is more than just a ritual—it’s a reminder of the ties that still bind people across borders, despite the political divides. As the journey to the Ganges begins, there is a quiet hope that one day these barriers will ease, and more Hindus from Pakistan will be able to visit the holy sites of India without the pain of waiting for visas that never come. Until then, these ashes will travel in the hands of those who can make the journey—and in the hearts of those left behind, who continue to wait for the day they can fulfill their loved one's final wishes.
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